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Disclaimer: I am not an electrician and claim no special knowledge about electricity. If you do not know enough about electricity to spot any errors in my pictures and descriptions (if any), you should not attempt this project. You must evaluate your own individual situation. The specifications and manufacturing process of the Silvia may be such that my descriptions of my efforts are not correct for current production units. Or, I may have just been lucky.
I am not responsible for your actions. Proceed at your own risk.
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After I was happy with the PID's functions, I added several other things to Murph's design.
Although I didn't mention it before, my initial installation mirrored Murph's, all the way to the cut-off extension cord to provide power to the PID.
My next move was to figure out how to wire the power directly to Silvia's power buss. I could visualize what I needed in spade lug adapters. Well, maybe I couldn't visualize it that well. I went to Radio Shack and looked and looked and looked — in the right parts drawer, too — but I finally had to ask.
Radio Shack sells a set of 8 spade-lug adapters (single female to dual-male quick disconnects #64-3064, $1.69), including 2 each of 4 styles. This was just perfect.
From the pictures on the right, you can see that, in my Silvia, there is a multi-spade-plug power switch block and a separate block for the "brew/steaming" power light (which comes on when the heaters are energized).
In my case, the black/hot wires are on the right side (when looking from the rear of Silvia) and the red/white/neutral wires are on the left (when looking from the rear of Silvia).
In the second picture, I have unplugged the top gold wire on the brew/steam light (just so I could get to the top spade lug on the power switch — and to be able to see more in the picture) and unplugged the top spade lug adapter from the top spade lug on the neutral side of the switch.
The second picture also shows a closeup of the female end of the spade lug adapter. The original red wires are connected to one of the male spade lugs of the adapter. My white wire, which goes to my PID, is connected to the other spade lug. By the way, these are big spade lugs, not the small size.
At the completion, the Silvia's power switch turns on the PID, too.
The second addition was to reroute the wiring through a silver-colored nylon expanding mesh sleeve. This wire cover came from my local auto parts store and was about $5.50 for a six-foot package. It was the 3/8th inch size. I routed the wires (in the sheath) through the hole in the bottom left rear corner of Silvia so I didn't need to drill a hole.
If I were doing it over, I would get one of the dual setpoint PID controllers. The dual setpoint option on the Fuji PXR3 that I have would have been $30 more.
With the dual setpoint option, I could wire the second setpoint to the steam switch and bypass the steam thermostat. Why, you might ask? Because 285-290 degrees gives great steamiing power. On the other hand, if I let the temp get to 295-296, the steam thermostat may trip while I'm steaming. In my case, the steam thermostat doesn't turn back on until the temperature drops to 255 degrees which means the steamed milk doesn't get foamed properly.
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